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The short answer
The best food in Seville is in its tapas bars, not its formal restaurants. Order one or two tapas per bar, then move on to the next.
- Best areas: Alfalfa and the Centro, El Arenal, Triana (Calle San Jacinto and the market), and the Feria and San Lorenzo area for a local crowd
- Classic bars: El Rinconcillo, Bodega Santa Cruz (Las Columnas), Casa Morales, Bodeguita Antonio Romero, Las Golondrinas
- Creative tapas: Eslava, Blanca Paloma, La Brunilda
- Price: about €3–5 a tapa in traditional bars; a full tapas dinner costs €20–35 per person with drinks
- Times: lunch from 14:00, dinner from 21:00
How tapas work in Seville
Unlike in Granada, tapas in Seville are not free with a drink. You order them from the menu, often written on a board behind the bar.
- Sizes: a tapa is a small plate for one or two bites each; a media ración is half a portion; a ración is a full plate for sharing. Some bars only serve tapas at the bar, and raciones at the tables.
- Standing or sitting: the best bars are often standing only. Squeeze in, catch a waiter’s eye and order a drink first.
- Paying: you pay at the end. In old bars like El Rinconcillo and Las Columnas, the waiter chalks your bill on the wooden counter. Ask for la cuenta.
- Tipping: not expected in bars. Round up, or leave 5–10% at a sit-down restaurant if the service was good.
- Tourist traps: avoid places with photo menus and waiters calling you in from the street, especially on the main squares around the cathedral.
What to order
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| Espinacas con garbanzos | Spinach and chickpeas with cumin and fried bread, Seville’s signature tapa |
| Salmorejo | Thick, cold tomato and bread cream with ham and egg on top |
| Solomillo al whisky | Pork tenderloin in a garlic and whisky sauce, with chips |
| Carrillada | Slow-cooked pork cheeks in a wine sauce |
| Pringá | Shredded stewed meats in a small bread roll (montadito) |
| Cazón en adobo | Marinated, fried dogfish |
| Pescaíto frito | Mixed fried fish, best in Triana and El Arenal |
| Jamón ibérico | Cured Iberian ham, cut by hand |
| Papas aliñás | Potato salad with onion, parsley, olive oil and vinegar |
| Serranito | A sandwich with pork loin, cured ham and fried green pepper |
Drinks: a caña (small draught beer), a glass of chilled manzanilla or fino sherry, tinto de verano (red wine with lemonade) in summer, or vino de naranja, a sweet orange wine. For breakfast, try a tostada with crushed tomato and olive oil, or churros with chocolate at Bar El Comercio (Calle Lineros), an old-style bar in the Centro.
The best areas for tapas
Alfalfa and the Centro
The busiest tapas area, around Plaza de la Alfalfa, Calle Pérez Galdós and Plaza del Salvador. Good for a crawl on any night of the week. North of the Setas, El Rinconcillo (Calle Gerona) claims to be the oldest bar in Seville, from 1670: order the espinacas con garbanzos and the bacalao (salt cod).
El Arenal
Between the cathedral and the river, with classic bars for all budgets.
- Casa Morales (Calle García de Vinuesa): a bodega from 1850 with giant clay wine jars behind the bar
- Bodeguita Antonio Romero (Calle Antonio Díaz): famous for its montaditos, especially the piripi, near the bullring
- La Brunilda (Calle Galera): modern tapas in a small room; arrive early or expect a wait
Santa Cruz
Touristy, but with some institutions. See also our Santa Cruz guide.
- Bodega Santa Cruz (Las Columnas) (Calle Rodrigo Caro): standing-room tapas, always packed
- Las Teresas (Calle Santa Teresa): a classic bar with hams hanging from the ceiling
- Casa Román (Plaza de los Venerables): a traditional bar since the 1930s
Triana
Across the river, more local and often better value. See our Triana guide.
- Blanca Paloma (Calle San Jacinto): a local favourite with traditional and modern tapas
- Las Golondrinas (Calle Antillano Campos): tiled bar known for its punta de solomillo and mushrooms
- Casa Cuesta (Plaza del Altozano): a traditional restaurant at the Triana end of the bridge
- Mercado de Triana: tapas bars and stalls inside the market, best at lunchtime
- Calle Betis: fried fish and drinks with a view of the old town
Alameda de Hércules
The alternative neighbourhood, with a younger crowd, terraces on the square, international food and more vegetarian options than the rest of the centre.
Feria and San Lorenzo
The area around Calle Feria, Calle Regina and Plaza de San Lorenzo, a short walk north of the Setas. Here Eslava (Calle Eslava) is one of the most awarded tapas bars in Seville: arrive when it opens or expect a queue at the bar. The Mercado de Feria, one of the oldest markets in the city, has tapas bars among the stalls.
Food halls
Mercado Lonja del Barranco, in a 19th-century iron-and-glass building next to the Isabel II bridge, is a gourmet food hall with stalls for tapas, seafood, rice dishes and drinks. Handy for groups who can’t agree, and open all day, but pricier than a bar.
Fine dining
Seville has a handful of tasting-menu restaurants recognised by the Michelin Guide, including Cañabota (seafood, Centro) and Abantal (modern Andalusian cooking). Book well ahead.
Meal times
| Meal | Usual time | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Breakfast | 8:00–11:00 | Toast and coffee in a bar |
| Lunch | 14:00–16:00 | The main meal; many restaurants offer a set menu on weekdays |
| Afternoon | 18:00–20:00 | Many kitchens are closed; bars serve drinks and a few cold tapas |
| Dinner | 21:00–23:30 | Locals rarely eat before 21:00; in summer, later |
Many traditional bars close one day a week (often Sunday evening or Monday), and some close for part of August. Check before crossing town for a specific bar.
A tapas tour
If you want the history and the best bars in one evening, a food tour takes you to three or four places with tastings and drinks included, usually for about 3 hours and €60–90 per person. Book a Seville tapas tour. More options in guided tours in Seville.
If you only have one day
Lunch at the Mercado de Triana or on Calle San Jacinto after visiting Triana. In the evening, a crawl from El Arenal (Casa Morales, Antonio Romero) to Santa Cruz (Las Columnas, Las Teresas). On a second night, do Alfalfa, El Rinconcillo and the Feria area. For a full plan, see one day in Seville or 2 days in Seville.
Where to stay nearby
Stay in the Centro or Santa Cruz to walk home from any tapas area, or in Triana to be next to its bars and the market. See where to stay in Seville.
FAQ
Are tapas free in Seville?
No. Tapas in Seville are ordered and paid for, usually €3–5 each. Free tapas with a drink are a tradition in Granada and a few other towns in eastern Andalusia.
What is the most typical food in Seville?
Espinacas con garbanzos, salmorejo, pringá, fried fish, solomillo al whisky and Iberian ham, with a glass of cold beer or manzanilla.
What time do people eat dinner in Seville?
From about 21:00, often later in summer. Most restaurant kitchens open around 20:00–20:30, so arrive early if you want a table without a wait.
What is the oldest bar in Seville?
El Rinconcillo, on Calle Gerona near the Iglesia de Santa Catalina, which dates its history to 1670.
Where do locals eat in Seville?
In Triana (Calle San Jacinto and the market), around Calle Feria and San Lorenzo, and in the Alameda. The bars around the cathedral are mostly full of visitors.