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The short answer
Santa Cruz is the heart of Seville’s old town: the former Jewish quarter, a maze of whitewashed lanes, flower-filled balconies and small squares with orange trees, wrapped around the walls of the Real Alcázar. It is free to explore, and we think it is best early in the morning or after dark, when the tour groups have gone.
- Time needed: 1–2 hours to wander, longer with a museum and tapas
- Best time: before 10:00, or after 19:00
- Where: between the cathedral, the Alcázar and the Jardines de Murillo
A short history
After the Christian conquest of Seville in 1248, the city’s Jewish community lived in a walled quarter, the Judería, which covered part of today’s Santa Cruz and the neighbouring San Bartolomé. In 1391 the quarter was attacked in a massacre that destroyed the community, and its synagogues were turned into churches. The church of Santa María la Blanca, a few minutes’ walk from the Jardines de Murillo, stands on the site of one of them.
The maze of lanes you see today was partly reshaped in the early 20th century, but its narrow streets still follow the old quarter. For more on this history, the small Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla, at Calle Ximénez de Enciso 22, shows maps of the old Judería. We couldn’t confirm its current hours and prices, so check before you go.
What to see
A good loop, starting at the cathedral:
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Plaza Virgen de los Reyes. The square at the foot of the Giralda, with its lamp-post fountain and horse carriages.
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Calle Mateos Gago. The street of tapas bars with what we think is the best view of the Giralda.
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Hospital de los Venerables. A 17th-century Baroque home for elderly priests, with a beautiful patio, a painted church, and the Velázquez Centre, which shows paintings by Velázquez and Murillo.
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Plaza de Doña Elvira. A tiny square of orange trees, tiled benches and a fountain.
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Callejón del Agua. A lane along the Alcázar wall, which once carried water to the palace. Look into the patios through the iron gates.
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Plaza de Santa Cruz. A quiet square with an ornate iron cross. The painter Murillo was buried in a church that stood here until Napoleon’s troops demolished it.
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Jardines de Murillo. Gardens along the outer Alcázar wall, with giant ficus trees and a monument to Columbus.
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Plaza Alfaro. A small square with a balcony said to have inspired The Barber of Seville.
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Plaza de los Refinadores. A quiet square with a statue of Don Juan Tenorio, the legendary seducer.
The loop takes about an hour without stops. We’d allow two hours with a visit to the Hospital de los Venerables and a drink. Get a little lost if you can: the lanes are small, and you are never far from the cathedral.
Legends of Santa Cruz
- Calle Susona: a tiled skull recalls Susona, a young Jewish woman who, legend says, betrayed her father’s plot to save her Christian lover, and asked for her head to be hung over her door when she died.
- Calle de la Pimienta and Calle Vida (Street of Life): small lanes with names that locals love to explain.
The legends free tour tells these stories after dark.
Practical tips
- Getting there: walk. Santa Cruz starts right next to the cathedral and the Alcázar, and most of its lanes are closed to cars. By public transport, the Prado de San Sebastián metro and tram stop is a short walk away.
- Wear good shoes. The lanes are cobbled and uneven.
- Combine it with the Alcázar. The Patio de Banderas, by the Alcázar exit, leads straight into the quarter, so it fits well after a morning visit. See the Alcázar guide.
- With a guide: a free walking tour covers Santa Cruz, or see the guided tours in Seville.
- Luggage: if you are staying here, ask your hotel how close a taxi can get.
Where to eat
Santa Cruz is touristy, but some bars are institutions:
- Bodega Santa Cruz (Las Columnas) on Calle Rodrigo Caro: standing-room tapas, always packed
- Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa: a classic bar with hams hanging from the ceiling
- Casa Román on Plaza de los Venerables: a traditional bar since the 1930s
We’d avoid places with photo menus and waiters calling you in. A tapa costs about €3–5 in traditional bars. If you want more of a local feel, the bars of Alfalfa and the Arenal are only a few minutes’ walk away. For more, see where to eat in Seville. For flamenco nearby, Tablao Los Gallos has been open since 1966, and La Carbonería is a local night: see flamenco shows in Seville.
Where to stay in the area
Santa Cruz is the most popular area for a first visit, and we’d stay here on a first trip.
- Budget: Hotel Alcántara has simple rooms in a historic house, a couple of minutes from the Murillo gardens.
- Mid-range: Las Casas de la Judería is a set of connected palaces with patios and a rooftop pool.
- Top: EME Catedral Mercer has a rooftop bar and pool looking straight at the Giralda.
More picks for every budget are in where to stay in Seville, and more in hotels in the city centre. On a budget, see cheap hotels in Seville.
FAQ
What is Seville’s old town called?
The historic centre (casco antiguo) covers several neighbourhoods. Its most famous part is the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter next to the Alcázar and the cathedral.
Is Santa Cruz safe at night?
Yes. It is busy until late and safe. As in any crowded area, watch your bag.
Is Santa Cruz worth visiting?
Yes, we think it is the most atmospheric part of Seville. We’d go early or late to see it without crowds.
How long do you need in Santa Cruz?
One to two hours to wander, and longer with a museum and tapas. We’d go before 10:00 or after 19:00 for fewer people.
Why is Santa Cruz called the Jewish quarter?
It covers part of the medieval Judería, the quarter of Seville’s Jewish community, which was attacked in the massacre of 1391.
Is Santa Cruz a good place to stay in Seville?
Yes, we think so for a first visit. You can walk to the cathedral and the Alcázar, but ask about noise and how close a taxi can get.