The short answer
Santa Cruz is the heart of Seville’s old town: the former Jewish quarter, a maze of whitewashed lanes, flower-filled balconies and small squares with orange trees, wrapped around the walls of the Real Alcázar. It is free to explore, and best early in the morning or after dark, when the tour groups have gone.
- Time needed: 1–2 hours to wander, longer with a museum and tapas
- Best time: before 10:00, or after 19:00
- Where: between the cathedral, the Alcázar and the Jardines de Murillo
What to see
A good loop, starting at the cathedral:
- Plaza Virgen de los Reyes. The square at the foot of the Giralda, with its lamp-post fountain and horse carriages.
- Calle Mateos Gago. The street of tapas bars with the best view of the Giralda.
- Hospital de los Venerables. A 17th-century Baroque home for elderly priests, with a beautiful patio, a painted church, and the Velázquez Centre, which shows paintings by Velázquez and Murillo.
- Plaza de Doña Elvira. A tiny square of orange trees, tiled benches and a fountain.
- Callejón del Agua. A lane along the Alcázar wall, which once carried water to the palace. Look into the patios through the iron gates.
- Plaza de Santa Cruz. A quiet square with an ornate iron cross. The painter Murillo was buried in a church that stood here until Napoleon’s troops demolished it.
- Jardines de Murillo. Gardens along the outer Alcázar wall, with giant ficus trees and a monument to Columbus.
- Plaza Alfaro. A small square with a balcony said to have inspired The Barber of Seville.
Legends of Santa Cruz
- Calle Susona: a tiled skull recalls Susona, a young Jewish woman who, legend says, betrayed her father’s plot to save her Christian lover, and asked for her head to be hung over her door when she died.
- Calle de la Pimienta and Calle Vida (Street of Life) with its twin Calle Muerte: small lanes with names that locals love to explain.
The legends free tour tells these stories after dark.
Where to eat
Santa Cruz is touristy, but some bars are institutions:
- Bodega Santa Cruz (Las Columnas) on Calle Rodrigo Caro: standing-room tapas, always packed
- Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa: a classic bar with hams hanging from the ceiling
- Casa Román on Plaza de los Venerables: a traditional bar since the 1930s
Avoid places with photo menus and waiters calling you in. For more, see where to eat in Seville.
Where to stay in the area
Santa Cruz is the most popular area for a first visit. Picks for every budget are in where to stay in Seville, and more in hotels in the city centre.
FAQ
What is Seville’s old town called?
The historic centre (casco antiguo) covers several neighbourhoods. Its most famous part is the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter next to the Alcázar and the cathedral.
Is Santa Cruz safe at night?
Yes. It is busy until late and safe. As in any crowded area, watch your bag.
Is Santa Cruz worth visiting?
Yes, it is the most atmospheric part of Seville. Go early or late to see it without crowds.